Saturday, May 7, 2011

Through the lava desert

The Skipsstígur trail is 18 km and starts very close to the base. At first grass dominates, the lava is not very exposed. The terrain is so flat that human settlements are still visible for a long time, to finally disappear from sight after around 1,5 hour of constant walking. The landscape is also changing - the terrain becomes less plain, short hill appear, the lava has very different shapes, some resembling The Giant's Causeway, some forming big holes in the ground, sometimes it's covered by a thick layer of moss that looks soft and fuzzy.




Finally it starts to sink in that I'm in the middle of nowhere. There are no humans in the radius of 9 km. The only sounds disturbing my silence are gusts of wind and sometimes wild ducks. The clouds are withdrawing, the sun appears, just to vanish in 10 minutes. This sequence recurs a couple of times. I like this wonderful solitude, when you stop thinking, worrying, all your fears are left behind and you simply feel your heart is at ease. I'm happy with my life.




I pass a "No entry" sing, or at least something that looks like this in Icelandic. The trail along a red pipe leads me to Bláa Lónið. I get there, with breaks no longer than for taking photos, in 2,5 h.



I continue the hike to Grindavík and pass some interesting lava formations and hills that are easy to climb on my way.  I'm very surprised to see that part of the village is also built on a lava field. It looks similar to Keflavík, with colorful houses, harbor, shrieking birds, volcanic rocks by the coast. Only the sea is much different - in Keflavík the water was almost still. Here it's an open ocean, the waves are massive and they crash over the rocks. I stay there for a while and marvel at the waves and cherish every moment and every part of the beauty I see.


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